Phoebe Philo announced in July 2021 that she would be returning to fashion with an eponymous label backed by LVMH. A deafening silence followed. However, if there’s one designer who’s bound to take a slower, more thoughtful approach to fashion, it’s Phoebe Philo – whispers that it might never happen grew more likely with each passing day. Almost a year and a half later, the designer confirms that her debut collection will be unveiled in September this year in a statement posted to her Instagram page.
According to an Instagram statement posted on the brand’s (otherwise empty) page, the first collection will be unveiled and available on phoebephilo.com in September 2023. Registrants can expect to be able to register by July 2023. Although the website domain has been purchased, there is currently nothing on the page. Apart from a new serif logo that signs off the statement, no other hints have been given as to how the collection will look.
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As a designer in the early noughties, Philo was attuned to women’s needs. As she skillfully blended masculine and feminine elements in muted colour palettes in a uniform that empowered and streamlined, there was a thoughtfulness and wisdom to her designs that trickled down further than the eye could see. Today, womenswear is still influenced by her designs, which heralded a new, clean era. Her protogees include Daniel Lee, now at Burberry, who served under Philo as the ready-to-wear director at Céline (now stylised ‘Celine‘ since her departure), and Abnit Nijjar, who is now design director for womenswear at Jil Sander.
Cody is the Editor in Chief and senior contributor at liminul.
He is a photography aficionado, fashion enthusiast, avid Lana Del Rey fan, and lover of all things aesthetically pleasing.