Fashion Art Toronto (FAT) is far more than a mere fashion week; it’s a celebration of artistic flair, spotlighting the innovative energies of Canada’s rising designer talent. As it blossoms into its 19th year for Spring/Summer 2024, FAT showcases itself as an eclectic blend of creativity, cultural richness, and sartorial audacity. This season, the event treated spectators with a breadth of runway shows that spanned the gamut from refined evening-wear to audacious interpretations of club-kid chic, solidifying its position as a pivotal platform for pushing the frontiers of Canadian fashion.
Here are several exceptional collections that left an indelible mark.
Carré Bourgogne
Montréal based Carré Bourgogne, helmed by Joe Koubayati, played with texture and volume for his Lignes De Fuite showcase collection, sending out intricately constructed leather dresses with bustles and lattice-like structures sutured by rope, alongside billowing ruffled voluminous gowns in rich earth tones. The collection articulated a dialogue between the opulence of historical fashion and the daring spirit of modern design, each piece masterfully showcasing Koubayati’s prowess in fusing traditional craftsmanship with avant-garde aesthetics. The garments, rich in detail and bold in execution solidified Carré Bourgogne’s reputation as a front-runner of innovation in Canadian fashion.
Prescribed Shelter
Prescribed Shelter’s underscored a robust fusion of utilitarian and urban streetwear. The line prominently featured tactical-inspired garments, employing a mix of heavy-duty fabrics and functional design details – zippers, velcro, adjustable straps and the like. The practical approach was infused with bold sartorial choices, notably through the use of stark, vibrant colours rendered in black and vibrant yellow, which punctuated the otherwise earth-toned palette.
DeathWorks
The latest collection from DeathWorks, designed by Andrew Esdaile, was a theatrical exploration of the avant-garde, blending the macabre with the whimsical in a uniquely captivating approach. Characterized by dramatic use of volume and texture, the line employed a diverse array of conventional and unconventional materials, from ethereal tulle and patchwork denim to robust leather and repurposed shopping bags, creating an eclectic and visually arresting narrative.
Process Visual
Over at Process Visual Jessy Colucci sent out a tableau of stark contrasts for Montréal based fashion incubator Lignes De Fuite, brilliantly juxtaposing the collection’s minimalist ethos with dramatic flair. Black balloon headpieces adorned models heads, sculpted into grandiose, abstract forms, floating above the clean, precise lines of the garments, creating a stunning visual dichotomy between grounded silhouette and aerial sculpture. Echoing this interplay, accessories were subtly accented with loose silver foil, adding a touch of refined glimmer that caught the light with every movement. A masterclass study of gravity, levity, and purity of form – the collection was a standout.
Soap Studios
Soap Studios’ latest collection at Fashion Art Toronto beautifully melded classic and contemporary styles, featuring bold colour contrasts and vintage-inspired silhouettes with a modern twist. High-waisted skirts in vivid green paired with structured white tops showcased sophisticated colour blocking, while accessories like white socks with black Mary Jane shoes added a touch of retro charm. The overall effect was a harmonious blend of past and present, demonstrating the brand’s unique ability to weave traditional elegance with modern sartorial sensibilities.
Sweeven
At Sweeven’s offering for the Lignes De Fuite showcase, the focus was on elevating traditional knitwear through innovative techniques and materials. The garments featured a complex interplay of crocheted and knitted elements, emphasizing structural integrity while incorporating fluid, draping forms. The palette was grounded in neutral tones, punctuated by occasional splashes of pastel to draw the eye without overwhelming the subtlety of the textures. The collection’s standout pieces were the headgear, intricately constructed to resemble organic forms, possibly inspired by natural elements, which complemented the garments’ tactile qualities. These accessories not only underscored the collection’s theme of merging nature with urbanity but also highlighted the brand’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of conventional knitwear. Sweeven’s approach this season made a clear statement about the potential for knitwear to play a sophisticated and avant-garde role in contemporary fashion.
Cody Rooney is the Editor in Chief and senior contributor at liminul.
He is a PhD candidate, digital content specialist, writer, editor, multi-media artist, and photographer.