Split-toe shoes, commonly referred to as Tabis, have made quite the name for themselves over the past decade. Their eye-catching design allows wearers to effortlessly elevate an outfit from simple to edgy.
Maison Margiela’s rendition of the Tabi Shoe is undeniably the most recognized on an international scale, but the style itself originated from Japan.
The split-toe originated in 15th century Japan and was actually used to refer to a sock that was meant to be worn with Zori, a kind of sandal made from either wood or straw. Tabis were 100% cotton, so Kohaze – buttons – were used to secure them onto the wearer’s feet. Eventually, a rubber sole would be added onto the bottom and they would become a staple for blue-collar workers since this new variation – known as Jika-Tabi – offered more balance than a regular shoe.
Construction workers in Japan commonly wear Jika-Tabi for more practical reasons such as balance and stability.
During a trip to Japan, Martin Margiela was introduced to the Jika-Tabi and felt strongly compelled to present his own take on the shoe in his 1989 debut collection. Originally, he intended to give the viewer the illusion that the models were barefoot, resting their naked foot on a bare heel. However, the shoe’s structure was too noticeable to properly obtain this effect. Either way, they left quite the impression, despite manufacturers refusing to put them into production at first due to their bizarre nature. Margiela painted the shoes’ bottoms red, just as models were about to walk down a canvas covered runway. By the end of the show, the floor was covered in peculiar footprints and this fabric would go on to be used for the creation of garments in his next collection. This marked the point in time when Tabi Shoes went from practical to fashionable.
Margiela’s debut show changed fashion forever. Not only did he introduce the iconic Tabi Shoe, but he also presented the collection in a local Parisian Café. Prior to this moment, critics expected designers to present their work in proper venues with strict seating arrangements.
Tabi Shoes didn’t have an immediate impact on mainstream fashion. They remained somewhat underground for a few decades, only fully being appreciated by those with a penchant for the unconventional. It’s difficult to pinpoint exactly when the public came to recognize Tabis as a legitimate footwear staple, but, as goes for most things in this day and age, social media likely had a hand in it.
Icelandic singer/songwriter Björk has been rocking the split-toe since the ‘90s.
In 2023, a woman went viral on Tik Tok for exposing her hookup who supposedly stole her Mary-Jane Tabis after their date. The thief was soon dubbed the ‘Tabi Swiper’ and internet detectives began their search for the culprit. The drama felt like something out of Sex and the City. This moment – though silly in nature – demonstrated the great value many fashion enthusiasts place on the shoe and certainly introduced it to a greater audience.
Unlike most trends nowadays, it seems as though Tabi Shoes are here to stay. The style itself is versatile enough that it can easily adapt to any kind of shoe; the possibilities are endless. From sneakers to high heels, there’s something for everyone. John Galliano, the current creative director at Maison Margiela, introduced Hoofed Tabis during their S/S ‘24 showcase.
Maison Margiela’s collaboration with Reebok
For their S/S ‘24 collection, Maison Margiela collaborated with Louboutin to create a hooved shoe that emulated the show’s uncanny essence.
Maison Margiela isn’t the only brand that produces split-toe shoes either. While the label played a major role in the style’s introduction to the West, there are many local Japanese brands that sell their own variations such as Marugo and SOU SOU.
Now, when it comes to people’s personal feelings on Tabi Shoes, there is quite the split of opinion. Some find them completely hideous and others totally gorgeous. You either love them or hate them; there’s no in-between.
Anaïs-Aimée Rafaelsen is an artist and critic based in Toronto. Her work has been shown in exhibitions as well as featured in The Walrus. She is currently obtaining her BDes in Material Art and Design at OCAD University.