This past weekend, Lignes De Fuite hosted their SS25 ONSHOW, a runway offering by the Montreal based fashion incubator which platforms promising, emerging designers’ work. With support from 1664 and LIMINUL, the night was bursting with collections that tempted us into worlds unknown, challenged our strength, and pushed sculptural limits in both size and grandeur. With two shows set for the night, the Lignes De Fuite runway held up the bare feet and clunky boots of featured designers like Rachel Sudbury, Bledno, and Atelier Denora, while also shedding light on the work of members of Lignes De Fuite’ very own mentoring program, such as the grungy, tattered-fabric clad red heads of Havran and the sky-shaded shearling models of Shelton Billings. Here are five collections that we adored.
Gio Caci
Gio Caci’s SS25 line implored us to sever from the masses and confront our own selves. The collection brought strength and vulnerability to the runway with angularly structured Lambskin leathers embossed with iron-wrought symbols, styled with waxy black denim jeans and leather holsters. Trim, body-hugging tailoring with cropped shirts and armour-esque leather coats worn off the shoulders were juxtaposed against exposed chests, which inspired this formidability that at its core read as raw and undefended. The curved lines and tight tailoring used to alter such tough material into pieces that were almost romantic in design, boasted a certain sense of vulnerability within humanity. The final look to grace the runway was a lambskin coat with the same swirled embossing and the words “FALSE SELF” imprinted along the top, worn cocooned around the model. In a notable final walk, wrapped in such a forbidding structure, the model cowered down the runway.
Bledno
With Bledno’s SS25 line, we witnessed an emergence. Models with long black hair and damp, glimmering skin slothed down the runway in garments constructed from blooming shapes, entangled in dark webs from a place unknown. A refreshing take on the office siren was presented with crisp white blouses designed with asymmetrical collars and a melody of daringly black, restrained bubble skirts that draped into jagged points. The blistering of folds and wrapping was cooled down with clean slacks and simplistic shift dresses. Barefoot models walked with nails curling and moss-like yarn meshed into stockings and a final look that carried floral-based horns cascading along the spine as if the models emerged straight from the water into our presence. With this line, there was a sense that Bledno had given birth to something undauntedly feminine and undeniably mystique.
Leidy Beibi
With the current online trend cycle attempting to water down tombette, Leidy Beibi delivers a collection that is made of one hundred percent of the real stuff. Merging corridors tumbados and coquette aesthetic, the freedom and flexibility of athletic clothing with overt expressions of femininity, Leidy Beibi brought a collection full of life, nostalgia, and just plain fun. The collection was accented with vibrant colours and branded with bejewelling. Bright hot pinks, cobalt blues, and bold teals. Between the sport shorts and heels came organza shawls with puffed up shoulders and tiered skirts. Like playing in your mother’s closet or being stuffed into a corseted dress and tiara for a quinceañera, this line is youthful and fresh. There was a strong sense of confidence and self that is embedded in the pieces. The hoop skirts and peek-a-boo undergarments brought a level of intimacy to such extroverted styling. The standout piece was a huge, hoop skirt made of tiered upcycled grey jersey track fabric paired with a white lace bustier and rich, blue lace thong peeking out.
Denora
Denora brought a whirlwind of patterns, textures, and lines that transport us as travelers to a world of Denora’s imagination. The styling of the collection played into a scene of fantastical characters gathering to parley and to drink and to be jovial. Argyle and stripes are centered at the heart of the line. Reminiscent of Maurice Sendak’s beloved children’s book, Where the Wild Things Are, the stockings worn by models were dyed with a similar striped pattern to the Wild Things in the story. This fit the youthful school-girl looks that wove their way between Renaissance characters. The level of imagination that Denora brought trickles down from the story behind the looks to the tailoring itself. An array of patterns, structured hats, and corsets is contrasted with comically large hats and patchwork fabric with raw tailoring. The show ended with five of Denora’s very own Wild Things. A large finger-trap piece adorned a flared white gown was the most intriguing of the five, as well as the wired silhouette styled with a theatrically large bowler hat. The final look, a glorious crocheted sun hat complementing a white wire-crocheted bodice with an exaggerated waist, was a testament to the drama and imagination fervent in the world Denora crafted.
Havran
Havran trotted three vibrant red-heads down the runway with hair so rich it made the entirely white collection an entrancing colour choice. The first look was slightly more tattered than the rest. Fraying lace and mismatched fabrics that added almost unnoticeable flickers of colour on the bomber coat complemented a flowy white pixie skirt. Matching a similar laissez-faire and comfortable fit, the closing look held the matching pants to the bomber coat; an incredibly detailed and subversive design tiered at the bottom of the pant legs, drawing the apparent endlessness to their length. It was the second look that was the standout in this debut. Beautifully pleated, silky fabric bunched into creped patterns. With bellowed sleeves and clean hems, this look was simply beautiful.
CREDITS — ON SHOW SS25
Makeup
Lead MUA: @alexandredeslauriers
With: @orev_makeup, @catoumua, @pamelagoldammer, @artangelanna, @artsyrituals, @ikramstouch, @ariane.lemire, @mamavenus.mua
Hair
Lead Hair: @stephane_scotto_di_cesare
With: @anitasanchezh, @steph_bourgault, @ivana_gentile, @nancy_cote_hairstylist (w/ students from @ecole_des_metiers_faubourgs), @salon123.ms.a (w/ students from @lauriermaccareercentre), @nick_garant
Rachel Sudbury Hair Team
@nouremanchakian, @haircules8, @sasukistudiohair
Mentoring Program — Hair & Makeup
@ben_veselic, @ahillesova_pyata, @eve.keffure, @sosoftbyalice
Creative Partners
@1664canada, @mmode, @kmshairca, @cantinbeaute, @dulcedomodels, @liminul, @atelier_textile, @symmetrysl
Supervision
@stephane_scotto_di_cesare, @alexandredeslauriers, @ben_veselic, @ahillesova_pyata, @delblot, @______alvarado, @ariane.poitras, @rz_arebeesea, @george_fok, @brokebackmountaindew
Hannah Verina White is a Montreal and Toronto-based writer. She has a deep love for the melodramatic and nostalgic, both of which influence the way she writes and the subjects she chooses to write about.