Weaving together fabric manipulation, sustainable practices, and feminine silhouettes are only a fraction of what creates Toronto based label Sagradesa’s distinctive design ethos. Inspirations behind the brand come from far and wide, including elements inspired by nature, Latin heritage, folklore, and various aspects of history in womenswear. Ahead of her presentation at Fashion Art Toronto’s 1664 Fashion Week, Liminul was able to sit down with Maxime Cadena-Chercover, the designer behind Sagradesa, to hear all about her collection and the practices that inspire her work as a designer.
I started following you and admiring your work as both a designer and friend in 2023 when I commissioned you for a piece to wear to Coachella. It’s one of my favourite tops I own to this day. When did you begin working in design and what was it that led you to become a designer?
My brand Sagradesa is officially 2 years old, but I started sewing in 2017 during my senior year of high school. I was making fun pieces for myself, my friends, and of course, I was very interested in making prom dresses.
What did the steps to developing Sagradesa’s unique design style look like?
It’s been a very long process of trial and error, as well as a personal exploration into my heritage, artistic style, and design voice. I realized in university that I had a deep passion for history, specifically art throughout history, which has inspired so many of my current design works. Imagining a woman in a historical context but living and loving in the modern day. There is definitely a lot of folklore, fairytales and fantasy throughout my inspiration–from Disney princesses to the Monarchy of France and England. The details and opulence of womenswear throughout history are what I dream about & what I see when I close my eyes.
What are three words you would use to capture the essence of Sagradesa?
Feminine, Romantic, and Whimsical (with a nod to historic feminine silhouettes, saloon girl, Victorian and Elizabethan references)!
What are other mediums you found inspiration in? Whether that’s culture, visual art, nature, music, or film–anything. Are there any specific pieces of work/culture that come to mind?
Definitely music–it’s one of the most inspiring mediums for me, both through the sound and feelings it brings forth. I’m also deeply inspired by the artists–the energy and their personality that they present through their art or on stage. Isabella Lovestory is one of my top icons who I am constantly in awe of, as well as Bellakath and Ms.Nina. I draw inspiration from reggaeton and neo-perreo stylistic references.
A few of my favourite films also include Pride and Prejudice, Elizabeth (The Virgin Queen), and Ever After. The costume design in all of these films is just as important and impressive as the plot.
Who are your sun, moon, and rising of established high-fashion designers?
My favourite designers of all time, who have inspired me with their craftsmanship and ingenuity, are Iris Van Herpen, Guo Pei, and Alexander McQueen. Iris Van Herpen especially is such a visionary and is at the forefront of technology and haute couture. She was one of the first designers I saw using techniques such as laser cutting and 3D printing. She exhibits brilliant, new ideas for runway presentations, especially with her Underwater Orchestra.
You’ve created such a unique brand identity through references of your Colombian heritage and by putting sustainability/repurposing textiles at the forefront of your work, creating bold yet feminine silhouettes with a variety of materials. With such a diverse catalogue of designs already, how do you continue to push your own boundaries and challenge yourself while you continue to work on new pieces?
Thank you so much for these kind words Izzy. I commit to continue our use of sustainably-sourced & repurposed textiles as an effort to reduce textile waste and promote sustainability, now and in the future. I hope to continue being inspired by nature and learning new techniques to mimic shapes and patterns found in nature, while also continuing to learn more about the history of women’s clothing, especially throughout the 15th to 18th centuries in Europe. These periods were so rich with ornamentation in design, and we still have much to learn. Garments were made beautifully and carefully by hand, through sustainable practices that we can learn a lot from today, including the concept of owning garments and passing them down through familial generations, caring better for and wasting less of our clothing. When things break, we can repair them or reinvent them instead of discarding them and looking for what’s next.
Where do you see elements of your work within your personal day-to-day style?
My day-to-day style is often also very feminine and playful. When I dress up, I love to be bold, and ultra-feminine with references to reggaeton music, Mexi-kitsch, and maximalism woven into my style. When I am working in my studio, you will catch me in baggy jeans and an oversized T-shirt, as I’ve come to embrace comfort in my work environment.
I wasn’t always like this, but working a lot of long nights recently has made me embrace the sneaker! I also LOVE to support other local designers, and will often wear garments made by friends and peers, thrifted, or my own designs. I’ve also been known to shamelessly repeat outfits, especially once I find something that fits well and is timeless. My grandmother always taught me that reinventing a look or a garment with pieces you already have is truly sustainable.
You’ve built up some extremely solid recognition for your brand, including working with some of your favourite Latinx artists such as Isabella Lovestory and MJ Nebrada. As an independent designer, what advice do you have for new designers in the industry who want to propel their success in a similar direction to your own?
It has not been easy to build this brand identity or recognition, it has required a lot of hard work and patience. I think that my biggest advice to new designers is being patient with yourself and your craft, and continuing to connect with nature and the world around you. I connect a lot through travel, both with places and people, and I think I will continue to travel and adventure into new landscapes as it brings new perspectives and ideas. I encourage others to do the same–go out of the city, touch grass and trees if you can, it can be so healing.
The launch of your FW25 collection is approaching this November 2024, following your presentation at Fashion Art Toronto in November. What has the process of preparing for this launch and presentation been like for you, and what can we expect to see?
Prepare to see my signature romantic, feminine, and playful silhouettes, but elevated to new heights through draping, corsetry, and references to historic silhouettes (panniers and underskirts). Through styling, we tell a narrative of a woman tempted, courted, and scorned by love–leaving her vengeful, powerful, and rising (with a sword) from the ashes, stronger than ever. This story is an homage to some of my favourite fantasy and historical stories, and figures such as Joan of Arc, as well as other strong, brave, female figures.
It’s been such a privilege to witness your growth and success over the last few years we’ve known each other. I wanted to conclude by asking what are some of your personal goals that you’ve created for yourself as your career and success as a designer continue to grow?
Thank you so much, Izzy, it’s been an honour to share these moments and I’m beyond grateful for your support. I hope to strengthen and grow the Latinx artist community within Canada and continue working with more Latinx musicians and artists through collaboration and costume design going forward. I want to continue to push myself and my community to do more for the environment and sustainability efforts, such as developing technologies in textile recycling, garment end-of-life circularity and transparency, and waste management, even through small practices like communal textile repurposing and mending workshops.
Izzy Petraglia is a publicist, writer and photographer based in Toronto. Within her work, she loves to tie in her passion for music, fashion, and pop culture. Follow her on Instagram