On March 21, 2024, Toronto-based clothing brand NUIT Clothing Atelier unveiled their Spring ’24 collection, titled “La Femme/Diable,” which translates to “The Woman/Devil” in English.
This new line is a conceptual exploration of the transition from girlhood into womanhood, a process tainted by the surveillance and objectification of the feminine body. Ana Ikonnikova, the founder of NUIT, aimed to create a collection that allows the wearer to reclaim their body, whether through bold expression or embracing modesty. The key factor here is choice. Women are often demonized for things natural, out of their control, or imposed by patriarchal structures of power. “La Femme/Diable” empowers them to express themselves as human beings with
complex emotions and nuanced personalities.
The Reversible Babydoll Dress
The Reversible Babydoll Dress is a crucial component of this collection. The Babydoll dress gained popularity among adults in the 1940s when designer Sylvia Pedlar significantly reduced the length of nightgowns due to fabric shortages caused by the Second World War. Women found it freeing to abandon restrictive corsets and allow room for their bodies to breathe. However, the style has been controversial due to its association with both childhood and sexuality. Many deemed it inappropriate for young children and infantilizing for women. Ikonnikova’s rendition
offers a new perspective. The sober colours avoid an outright childish feel, and the ambiguous silhouette portrays the body neutrally. The garment can be worn by both children and adults.
The Diamond Demon Stays
The star of the collection is undoubtedly the Diamond Demon Stays. Maturing includes recognizing that, despite some oppressive associations, corsets are meant to offer support for those who require it. When properly fitted, they are comfortable and empowering. There has been a resurgence of corsetry in the 2020s due to popular aesthetics such as cottagecore, but Ikonnikova’s bold and innovative designs offer a fresh take on historical clothing. The pair of
stays fully embodies the collection’s title and concept by mimicking devil horns. The fabric, a luxurious cotton sateen blend, is bound to make anyone feel luxurious, rebellious, and confident.
Colour Palette and Fabric Choices
The colour palette for this line is dominated by contrasting white and black cotton fabrics, disrupted by devilish ruby-red accents. The clash between black and white may nod to Christian symbolism for purity and sin. While red was once associated with Hell and Satan, it now symbolizes liberation and joy. A classic red lip, red roses, and blushed cheeks connect to female empowerment and femininity. The garments in this collection accommodate the natural fluctuations of the feminine body. The Diamond Demon Stays, for example, are adjustable in the front and back. Other garments, such as the Four-Way Drawstring Skirt, stretch to shape themselves to the wearer’s body. Unlike many fast fashion brands, NUIT’s customers wear the clothes; the clothes don’t wear them.
Sustainability and Core Values
In an era dominated by fast fashion, NUIT is a breath of fresh air. Their core values—sustainability, diversity, and accessibility—are evident in every aspect of the brand. Produced 100% in Toronto, the label uses only biodegradable fabrics such as cotton and linen, ensuring every piece is made with the utmost care. Each garment is produced in limited quantities, preventing inventory waste and offering customers a unique, luxurious experience at affordable prices. It is rare today to find a brand that cares so deeply about its consumer base beyond financial aspects. NUIT Clothing Atelier is made for the people, by the people.
Anaïs-Aimée Rafaelsen is an artist and critic based in Toronto. Her work has been shown in exhibitions as well as featured in The Walrus. She is currently obtaining her BDes in Material Art and Design at OCAD University.