Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ Autumn 2024 Menswear Collection artfully weaves together the dichotomy of urban professional life and the serene embrace of nature. This juxtaposition was brought to life in a breathtaking runway spectacle: guests perched on rotating office chairs, suspended above a crystalline stream meandering through a lush tapestry of autumn foliage, grass, and ferns. This setting brilliantly encapsulated the stark contrast between the artificial glow of indoor existence and the unspoiled beauty of the natural world.
The collection itself was a masterful blend of conventional office attire and elements inspired by the wilderness. In a quintessentially Prada manner, traditional business wear was ingeniously complemented with aquatic accessories like swimming caps, goggle-esque eyewear, and pool slides. The designs broke new ground with vibrant hues for trousers and twin sets, refined British-style country jackets oozing confidence, sleek slipper-like dress shoes poised to usurp the reign of bulky soles, and an array of bold belts, often layered for dramatic effect.
The maritime motif also surfaced, with sumptuous shearling greatcoats adorned with shimmering gold buttons, echoing sailor aesthetics seen in other Milanese showcases. Raf Simons reflected on the collection’s myriad inspirations – from the archetype of the businessman to the labourer, and their interconnectedness with nature. Meanwhile, Prada invoked the human longing for the cyclical rhythm of seasons, drawing parallels to enduring artistic expressions like Igor Stravinsky’s “The Rite of Spring.”
The collection, rich with grey flannel, sophisticated outerwear, and robust knitwear, effectively conjured the quintessence of autumn and winter. The tailoring was innovative and predominantly boxy for suits and topcoats, while trench coats were crafted to be sleek and streamlined. Distinctive Prada traits shone through in the unique styling of trousers that straddled the line between formal and casual, the unconventional palette for sweaters and various lower garments, and the eclectic mix of headwear including beanies, balaclavas, and captain hats.
The ensemble was completed with silk neckties in subdued shades, shared alongside the invitations, symbolizing the enduring, cyclical nature of fashion. Even formal neckwear, once thought to be on the brink of extinction, was posited for a revival, illustrating the perpetual evolution and rejuvenation inherent in fashion. The collection was not just a showcase of seasonal trends but a poetic expression of fashion’s eternal renewal.
Cody is the Editor in Chief and senior contributor at liminul.
He is a photography aficionado, fashion enthusiast, avid Lana Del Rey fan, and lover of all things aesthetically pleasing.