Florence’s magnificent Palazzo Vecchio was abuzz with anticipation for S.S.Daley’s FW24 show, a significant departure from his usual London presentations. This marked his first venture at Pitti Uomo, raising questions about how his aesthetic would mesh with the event’s traditionally masculine flair.
Drawing inspiration from E.M. Forster’s 1911 narrative “A Story of a Panic,” Daley seemed to ponder his own sense of belonging in this new setting. His collection, reminiscent of British alienation in Italy, was creatively displayed amidst pillow-laden runways, evoking the private, self-discovering ambiance of Oxbridge dormitories. The apparel – Oxford tails, elongated rugby shirts, and relaxed tailoring – spoke of youthful introspection. True to his signature style, Daley showcased flared trousers, cotton suits, and whimsical woollen jumpers, but the collection also marked a bold step forward with the debut of bags and shoes.
Highlights included oversized woollen ponchos, elegant maestro coats, a vibrant yellow raincoat, padded jackets with shorts, and a standout jumper featuring ‘Snug as a Bug.’ The styling suggested a ‘morning after’ theme: formal shirts without trousers, loose ties, and unbuttoned tops, hinting at the previous night’s dormitory escapades.
Known for his theatrical presentations often featuring National Youth Theatre actors, including stars like Ian McKellen, Daley’s FW24 show was a surprising shift to a more conventional runway format. However, the grandeur of Palazzo Vecchio’s space eliminated any need for additional drama.
This show was a milestone for Daley, demonstrating significant growth in his designs. Post-show buzz was heightened by the announcement of Harry Styles becoming a minority shareholder in S.S.Daley, signaling even greater heights for the brand.
Cody is the Editor in Chief and senior contributor at liminul.
He is a photography aficionado, fashion enthusiast, avid Lana Del Rey fan, and lover of all things aesthetically pleasing.
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