Memory is both a potent artistic and cultural catalyst. Memory as archive, memory as tradition, memory as meaning-making, and as emotional processing; translated into the sartorial it can represent a second skin of sorts, an embodiment of cultural heritage, and an embodied manifestation of self-hood and lineage. At a time when fashion often moves at an unrelenting pace, driven by algorithmic trends and fleeting moments of virality, Valente’s offering for FW25, Viva Per Sempre, offered a striking counterpoint. Unveiled at New York Fashion Week, the collection was an assertion that memory—both personal and collective—remains one of the most potent forces in design.
Fashion, at its most evocative, is a language of storytelling, and for Angelica Valente who originally hails from Thunder Bay, Ontario, this season was a deeply intimate chapter. Viva Per Sempre was a meditation on legacy, cultural inheritance, and the power of sartorial remembrance. What does it mean to remember, and what does it mean to embody it? Rooted in the traditions of her Italian heritage and inspired by the 1980s band her grandfather, mother, and uncles once performed in, the collection translated archival history into tangible expression. This was not nostalgia for nostalgia’s sake but an excavation of meaning—one that took place through fabric, silhouette, and the immersive experience of the show itself.
Staged at Pizzette, an intimate Italian eatery tucked away in the heart of Brooklyn, the venue choice was deliberate: rather than a stark, anonymous runway, Valente invited guests into the venue as valued collective members of the creative community. Visually, Viva Per Sempre was a study in contrasts. Structured tailoring met cascading drapery, gothic veiling juxtaposed with metallic eveningwear, and exaggerated proportions redefined the relationship between the body and space. Gender fluidity, an ethos long embedded in the DNA of Valente’s work, was once again at the forefront, with models of all identities moving through garments that rejected traditional binaries.
We sat down with Angelica on the heels of the show to talk all things legacy, craftsmanship, and the intersection of personal history and contemporary fashion.
“Viva Per Sempre” translates to “Live on Forever.” How does this title encapsulate the essence of your FW25 collection?
Viva per Sempre “Live on forever” – This collection was inspired by my family and their legacy that they have created. My mom, her brothers and my late Nonno had an Italian band in the 80’s and they performed for everyone’s weddings or gatherings at the time. They touched so many people’s hearts and gave people so much joy. They always reminisce about the stories of the past and the main thing I loved hearing was how happy performing together made my Nonno, seeing all his family there together on stage made him light up. At the time of course there was no social media and they recorded everything on VHS. I refused to let this beautiful family history just melt away and wanted to take this moment to dig up those tapes and share their light with the world. This collection is a tribute to my Nonno, my family and to the beautiful moment in time that will now live on forever.
This collection pays homage to Italian heritage and culture. Were there specific historical references, family traditions, or personal memories that shaped your vision?
I began this collection by getting any photos of the Italian band to bring inspiration for the style of clothing, materials, and colours. I then asked for their sheet music that they used onstage. I actually turned their real sheet music into a design that we sublimated to make button up shirts. I created the soundtrack with my brother and we infused my Nonno’s instrument – the mandolin. This was the heartbeat of the band so I knew the whole soundtrack had to have this element as the driving force.
My mother played the mandolin during the showcase and that was actually my Nonno’s exact Mandolin from the late 50’s. I had tango dancers because most videos I watched had people partner dancing all night long, with huge smiles on their faces. I knew a dancing element had to be included. My brother also sang the lyrics – “viva per sempre, io ricordo del mandolin, tenerci insieme, per sempre per sempre – translating to “live on forever – I remember the mandolin – it keeps us together – forever and ever”. We also made a purse with briscola cards (a staple card game in any Italian family) but this purse didn’t make the show. When I went home during Christmas I interviewed the family – I heard all the stories and memories and created a small documentary. I played a sizzle of it at the beginning of the show. I printed out photos from the band and placed them all around the pizzeria. Lastly we had to have limoncello there for the guests when they arrived – a true Italian traditional drink.
Your designs blend structured tailoring with fluid draping. What was your approach to balancing these opposing forces, and what story does this contrast tell?
Mixing structured tailoring with fluid draping was a decision I made to incorporate both powerful and romantic silhouettes. Often times the band would all wear suits together including my mom, and then other times she embraced her femininity with a dress or skirt. I chose to embrace both at the same time to play with feminine and masculine energies. We all have both energies running through us at all times and its magic when we can be multidimensional and embrace the contrast.
Theatricality is a strong presence in this collection—exaggerated proportions, gothic veiling, and dramatic silhouettes. How did you conceptualize this aesthetic?
Going back to the band, they never played it safe.. they wore white shoes, top hats, bedazzled outfits, half black / white suits, men in heels etc so this was passed down to me. I wanted to create exaggerated proportions and dramatic silhouettes because it makes people see the regular human body in a new way. This was also inspired by the 80’s aesthetic. Sticking to a normal silhouette has never interested me, there’s enough of that in the world. I also wanted to inspire the creatives out there to be bold, and embrace your uniqueness with your outfits. Be dramatic, don’t fit in, challenge the norm – it truly feels freeing.
The use of metallics, fur-lined accessories, and sheer elements created a dynamic textural interplay. How do you see materiality influencing the emotional impact of your work?
I love playing with various textures and then placing them in interesting areas – I believe this helps our brains stay thinking, stay questioning. The toolbox for example had spiked grey fur all around it. When I brought that through security during my travels, the travel agent actually said audibly “EW thats disgusting” and honestly I loved that – she had a visceral response to my creation that I personally loved. But it made her have a reaction and woke her up from her possibly boring day.
Presenting in an intimate setting like Pizzette, rather than a traditional runway, made the show feel immersive. What drew you to this space, and how did it shape the experience?
I knew from the beginning I wanted to use the location to really add to the story of this collection. In theatre – the stage, props, and set design create the environment of the story – I wanted to create a full immersive experience and set the tone the second you stepped into the door. When I found Pizzette and chatted with the kind owner, I knew this was the spot. Food is a huge part of an Italian lifestyle so it just felt fitting. It also felt more messy, intriguing, true to Valente, and just different. Yes it was very tight, and gave unique obstacles for us to jump through (aka getting ready in a kitchen, having to light through the skylight on roof) but the pro’s out weighed everything and the texture of the spot really added to the visual aesthetic as well. Seeing photos of the DJ with cans of tomato sauce behind her was priceless and feeding my cast and crew homemade pizza right out the kitchen was legendary.
There’s an undeniable sense of narrative within this collection. Do you see yourself as a storyteller through fashion? If so, what emotions or themes were you hoping to convey?
Storytelling I’d say is a huge pillar of Valente – for me that’s where all concepts, clothing and ideas stem from. I need that deep underlying story first to drive the intention and the energy behind the collection. Through this specific show I wanted to convey an emotion/theme of nostalgia, royalty, and eternal family connection. My Nonno passing away was one of the most impactful events that has happened in my life ever. But I feel his presence everyday in my life. His spirit circulates me in this life. I wanted people to feel the essence of Italian traditions circulating in the room. Angels from above and a sense of pride from the past. The models were walking slow and confident to embody royalty just as the band felt onstage.
Your work seems to push the boundaries of gendered fashion. How do you see Viva Per Sempre contributing to ongoing conversations about fluidity in design?
Valente is a genderfluid fashion company – all garments are made for everyone and anyone. In our Viva Per Sempre collection we showcased various genders wearing a variety of styles to showcase that any gender is welcome in the garments and encouraged to play beyond the boundaries. Back in the 80’s my uncles were wearing heels, my mom in suits and I wanted to push the culture forward, not backwards.
Fashion has always been a conversation between past, present, and future. Where do you see the evolution of your aesthetic heading next?
Valente began with a heavy influence from the past and mixing it with a futuristic approach. This, to me, creates a timeless aesthetic. I want to keep exploring past silhouettes and recreating them in an innovative way. I think there’s so much to learn about the past yet there’s an infinite amount of ideas to create for the future. The possibilities are limitless and that gets me really excited.
If there were one lasting impression you’d want people to take away from Viva Per Sempre, what would it be?
One lasting impression from Viva Per Sempre I’d want people to take away would be – a connection to ancestral spirit – they truly live on forever and so will Valente. Viva per Sempre.
Cody Rooney is the Editor in Chief and senior contributor at liminul.
He is a PhD candidate, digital content specialist, writer, editor, multi-media artist, and photographer.