While the Milan Menswear schedule has been dialed down, fashion week is still white-hot. From Alyx staging its Milanese return after a slew of Paris shows, to Prada, Etro, and J.W Anderson all offering up sartorial hope, all is not lost in the world of fashion. We’ve rounded up everything you need to see.
Playing on masculine archetypes and relative status by occupation, Prada’s men’s FW22′ collection was about celebrating “the idea of working—in all different spheres and meanings.” Hugely cinched waists on lengthened bombers and field jackets riffed on accentuating masculine proportions whilst a slew of haute-uniforms riffed on the elevation of the mundane. “It is a practical, everyday thing. But here, you are formally important. You are not casual.”
1017 ALYX 9SM
Alyx creative director Matthew Williams made his big Italian return for FW22. The designer and helm of Givenchy showed a sleek, contemporary collection packed full of Alyx signatures. Models wore slick quilted vinyl trousers and structured coats lined with ostrich feathers, oversized puffers, whilst chunky knits stomped down the runway paired with ergonomic rubber boots. In quintessential Williams fashion, the designer sent out a number of womenswear looks as well in the form of swooping, backless capes, and luxe latex slips, in deep red, dusty lilac, and mauve hues.
Inspired by engaging with “the limits of hyper-masculinity” via watching Cristiano Ronaldo documentaries and diving into the dank corners of the internet, Jonathan Anderson’s offering for FW22′ was equal parts indie sleaze and eccentric glamour. Big knits with bouncy chain-links and cute cropped-tops stuffed with neon rubber bands abounded, as did monogrammed outerwear and shimmering sports uniforms. The collection was a welcome reprieve of buoyant unfettered playfulness.
Etro’s FW22′ collection was decidedly academic. Sending out second-hand paperbacks by way of invitation and staging the show at Milan’s Bocconi University, the studious aesthetic filtered into the collection itself too, with every model clutching a book of some kind down the runway. Collegiate and eccentric at once, the colour palette and proportions of the collection were quintessential Etro. All chunky jumpers, kaleidoscopic Paisley prints, oversized suiting, crisp button-downs, and chunky cords.
Moving back towards “a feeling, an emotion” Samuel Ross’s FW22′ collection was conceived by molding clay and plaster into maquettes. Taking the form of an atmospheric film shot in the grand halls of the Tate Modern, Ross’ intention with this collection? Create garments that help loosen the wearer’s place in the world and disrupt social convention. The result was a collection coalescing textured utility with an avant-garde flair, mixing oversized proportion, somber tones, and pops of shimmering metallic. Amidst all of the darkness, not all is lost.
Cody is the Editor in Chief and senior contributor at liminul.
He is a photography aficionado, fashion enthusiast, avid Lana Del Rey fan, and lover of all things aesthetically pleasing.