Until recently, New York Fashion Week felt a little dull. It’s true that heritage American brands like Ralph, Tommy, Michael Kors et al do Upper East Side collar-popping better than most, but beyond striped rugby shirts and oversized poplin, pre-pandemic NYFW was lacking a little panache. With a special Fendi show, Marni’s relocation to New York City, and homegrown talent LaQuan Smith, Eckhaus Latta, and AREA taking up deserved schedule space, this season felt like the rightful return for America’s fashion capital.
Proenza Schouler
Year after year, Proenza Schouler is the first big show on the New York Fashion Week schedule that sets the mood. This is something Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have excelled at over the years. With the intention of embodying “the sensation of freedom inherent in a summer well lived, one rooted in sunshine, water, skin, the body in motion,” their SS23 collection celebrates spirit, joy, and energy, the high New Yorkers have been riding all season long.
Dressed in a midriff-baring fringe top and slouching black bubble skirt, Arca opened the show in the rain-soaked Hall des Lumières. McCollough and Hernandez created a fluid sense of movement with exaggerated ruffles, oversized flares and volume in unexpected places throughout this collection. “There was a conversation of identity: gender identity, cultural identity,” Lazaro explained backstage after the show. “We leaned into my Latin history, my personal narrative, which we’ve never really explored.”
Eckhaus Latta
In honour of the founders’ late friend, artist Matthew Underwood, Eckhaus Latta unveiled its Spring/Summer 2023 collection during New York Fashion Week.
The diverse forms of media Underwood works with are evident in the experimental aesthetic of his prints. The collection features a colour palette of deep cobalt blues, bright oranges, rich browns, and soothing creams. With the permission of Underwood’s estate, the artist’s dynamic abstract prints cover ribbed knits, alongside dazzling slinky silver tops.
Standouts included a foil knot dress that offered delightfully tactile tassels across the chest and hem. Elsewhere, textured chocolate brown knit sets ground the collection, while see-through net cardigans and sultry dresses bearing bold cut-outs immediately caught the eye.
Marni
At Marni Spring/Summer 2023, the house put on an inimitable display of fiery-hued garments, inspired by the sun’s ongoing ebb and flow.
Form-fitting vinyl dresses, sleek trench coats, and lustrous tuxedo jackets all featured ultra-saturated orange, yellow, and red colours, while the viral aura trend prevailed with bright splotches adorning colour-blocked maxi dresses. Elsewhere, floor-length abstract printed gowns with flowing sleeves stole the show, mimicking the sunset’s awe-inspiring glory.
Despite its wistful nature, the collection was full of sex appeal and sophistication. A thigh-high slit on leather dresses evoked the sun’s all-encompassing heat while sherbet-hued knit midriff baring two pieces kept our summer dreams alive.
Luar
The setting for LUAR’s Spring/Summer 2023 runway show at The Shed in NYC included a black carpet, black curtains covering the walls, and four oval-shaped mirrors.
Models walked down the runway during the LA ALTA GAMA show before stopping to examine themselves in the mirrors. In the 1980s and 1990s, when Dominicans started relocating to New York, Lopez recalled his family gatherings and their perception of opulence.
The outing was a classic example of maximalist NYC, complete with crocodile and ostrich embossed blazers with asymmetrical single button closures, overcoats, geometric print tops, relaxed pants with pleated detailing, hybrid trench coat dresses, pinstripe suiting, blissful denim floor-length skirts, and more.
Laquan Smith
Three adjectives that accurately describe LaQuan Smith’s artistic fashion design style and his penchant for producing ready-to-wear for both men and women are elevated, elegant, and seductive. Smith gave a whimsical presentation for his Spring/Summer 2023 collection, which was inspired by reimagined parts of nature, even though his most recent collection did not feature any menswear goods.
Smith referred to his recent vacation to Morocco as the inspiration for SS23, which was motivated by “wind, air, and movement.” His team of primped models wore miniskirts, bejewelled lace, cellophane cargo trousers, bias-cut jersey dresses, and asymmetrically body-baring designs.
On the runway, there were also utilitarian themes to be seen in the form of safari-style jackets with belted waists, as well as multi-pocket cargo pockets on barely-there skirts and low-rise cargo pants.
Fendi
Fendi has clearly found a home within the bustling atmosphere of New York City. In 2017, the brand debuted its forward-thinking and next-gen-focused “F is For Fendi” project at New York’s Boiler Room, and in 2021, a Fendi Roma billboard light show will take over Times Square. Now, one year later, the brand has returned to New York Fashion Week with its Resort 2023 collection.
The brand celebrated the 25th anniversary of its “Baguette” bag with this collection, which featured co-designed elements from Tiffany & Co, Marc Jacobs, Sarah Jessica Parker, and Porter. The miniature shoulder bag gained coveted “It Bag” status after its debut in 1998.
Fendi’s appreciation for NYC street style was evident on the Resort ’23 runway, with layered knits, artisanal denim, stacked accessories, and technical outerwear. The collection’s ready-to-wear approach focused on utility as a theme, with leather windbreakers with colour-blocked front chest plackets, moire bomber jackets with double-zip closure and envelope-sized pocket enclosures, tonal cargo pants and car coats with exterior zip detailing. Shiny sequined separates and two-toned sports jackets complimented “Fendi Roma” logo shirts, military boots, and decorated beanies.
Dion Lee
It’s been all eyes on Dion since his collaboration with Rosalia for her current tour, and for SS23, Lee tapped into the slinky singlets and leather harnesses with a Moto Mami lens, building on his signature concepts.
It was all denim mini skirts, moto jackets in leather and windbreaker material, and slinky mini dresses with crystal fringing. There were open-toe boots in lime and black with laser-cut leather in the shape of monstera leaves that wrapped around the shins, as well as matching dresses with the same effect around the torso. Signature corsets made a comeback with the same modernized motifs. One of our favourites was in black lace with boning shaped like foliage, paired with delicate lace opera gloves.
In contrast to Fall 22, which felt very dystopian and doomsday, SS23 turned a – pardon the pun – new leaf, one that continued Lee’s ever-rolling conversation between the urban environment and the natural one.
Cody is the Editor in Chief and senior contributor at liminul. He is a photography aficionado, fashion enthusiast, avid Lana Del Rey fan, and lover of all things aesthetically pleasing.
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